Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary
The Kinabatangan River (Sungai
Kinabatangan) is located in Sabah, eastern Malaysia, on the island of Borneo.
It is the second longest river in Malaysia, with a length of 560 kilometers
from its headwaters in the mountains of southwest Sabah, to its outlet at the Sulu
Sea, east of Sandakan.
Kinabatangan is known for its
remarkable wildlife and fascinating habitats such as limestone caves at Gomantong
hill, dryland dipterocarp forests, riverine forest, freshwater swamp forest, oxbow
lakes and salty mangrove swamps near the coast.
Ecology
The ecology of the upper reaches
of the river has been severely disrupted by excessive logging and clearing of
land for plantations. However, the original lowland forests and mangrove swamps
near the coast have largely survived and provide sanctuary for a relatively
decent population of Saltwater Crocodiles (Crocodylus porosus), and contain
some of Borneo's highest concentrations of wildlife. Of special note are Borneo's
indigenous proboscis monkeys and orangutans, Asian elephants and Sumatran rhinoceros.
The area is also known for its great variety of birdlife.
Each year, the lashing rains of
the northeast monsoon cause the river to swell rapidly. Unable to disgorge into
the sea quickly enough, the river frequently overflows its banks and spreads
across the flat land of its lower reaches, creating a huge floodplain. The
lower Kinabatangan teems with both animal and plant life, making it the best
area for viewing wildlife, not just in Sabah but all of Southeast Asia.
In 1997, 270 square kilometers of
the lower Kinabatangan floodplain was declared a protected area, and in 2001
this designation was upgraded to that of "bird sanctuary", largely
through the efforts of the various NGOs. However, further efforts to have the
area declared a "wildlife refuge" or even "national park"
had been opposed by the largely oil palm plantation owners seeking to expand
their cultivated land.
Thankfully by August 2006
following media attention after a decapitated elephant's head was found
floating down the river, the area was finally gazetted under the State's Wildlife
Conservation Enactment of 1997 as the Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary. It is
now under the preview of the Sabah Wildlife Department.
Currently, most nature tourism is
concentrated around Sukau, accessible by road and offering comfortable
accommodation to visitors prepared to pay for well-managed tours. The most
populated area and also the Central Administration for Kinabatangan is Kinabatangan
Town, located along the Sandakan-Lahad Datu highway, and about 90 kilometers
from Sandakan Town. The largest cave system in Sabah, Gomantong Caves, also can
be found in this region.
Sukau
Sukau village is situated on the lower course of the Kinabatangan river,
one of the longest rivers in Borneo. Cruising by village boats on this
river and it's tributaries offers one of the best opportunities in Sabah
to observe Bornean wildlife. Of particular interest is the rich primate
fauna; this is one of only two areas in Asia with 10 primate species.
These include several Bornean endemics (only found in Borneo), such as
the Proboscis monkey, Maroon langur and the Bornean gibbon.
Kg. Sukau is also located on the boundary of an important protected area
in Sabah, the Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary. It is one of only a few
protected wetland sites in Sabah, and is part of an important
conservation area for primates, larger mammals (such as the Asian
elephant) and other wild animals of the wetlands (otters, Storm's stork
and the flat headed cat are notable examples).
History
For centuries, the rare
treasures
of Borneo's forests acted like a magnet for traders in search of edible
bird's
nests, rhinoceros horn, elephant ivory and hornbill casques for the
Emperor and
the wealthy mandarins of China.They also sought a hardwood
resin, damar; flexible rattan vines; beeswax to make candles; fragrant
woods
and oil-rich illipe nuts.
River Safari
Observing wildlife needs a little patience, good common sense, luck,
good timing and a pair of binoculars! Take a boat ride during the early
morning (6 am) or late evening (4 to 6 pm), on the main river and it's
tributaries. These are the best times for spotting wildlife along the
Kinabatangan river and it's tributaries (start around 2-4 pm and cruise
till dusk); there are good opportunities to observe resting proboscis
monkeys which sleep along the river banks. It is suggested that one
takes the cruise up to Tenegang Besar (starting around 2pm) or Resang.
On your return journey, between 4pm - dusk is one of the river at the
best times to observe wildlife.
Dawn along the Menanggul river (6.30am), followed by an excursion
upriver to the Kelandaun ox-bow lake (there is a short circuit trail at
the ox-bow lake). Back in Sukau by lunchtime, for it gets too hot for
both man and other wildlife!
Limestone forests
There are two fascinating forested limestone hills nearby where gibbons
and langurs can often be heard and sometimes sighted. One can be seen
just as you enter the village area, on ones left. Another is Keruak
cave, several minutes downriver from Sukau. This is worthwhile to visit
as you will trek through one of the most peculiar of lowland forest in
Sabah - seasonal freshwater swamp forest. Here bizarre breathing roots
of Lophopetalum, strikingly buttressed trees of Dillenia
and sprawling surface roots of Mallotus muticus can be found.
About 20 km away, is another important limestone massif, called
Gomantong. Gomantong Hill is the largest limestone outcrop in the Lower
Kinabatangan area, and contains at least nine caves. For centuries, the
Gomantong Caves have been renowned for the valuable edible birds' nests
made by two of the four species of swiftlets that roost in the caves.
During the harvesting months, visitors may be able to witness the birds'
nest collectors in action.
Getting there
One can fly from Kota Kinabalu to
Sandakan on Malaysia Airlines, whilst those from Kuala Lumpur can take
direct
daily flights to Sandakan on AirAsia. Alternatively, one can take an
air-conditioned coach to Sandakan or Lahad Datu from Kota Kinabalu
From Sandakan, one can find busses to Sukau waiting in
front of the
Genting Mas Supermarket. They normally leave Sandakan between 10 to
noon. They cost RM 30per person/one way. If in a group, one may also
charter the whole mini-bus for RM300 one-way or hire a private car from
Sandakan For RM 400. Alternatively, you could try local tour operators or an experienced guide.
In Sukau, boats can be chartered from the villagers. Depending upon the
destination, the rates can vary between RM 50 to RM 200 for a typical
boat. Note, for safety reasons, village boats will usually take up to 6
persons only.
Accommodation
In Sukau, many of the major tour
operators maintain lodges. All lodges offer packages, which usually
include
transport, accommodation, food and guiding services. However, most of
the money
spent in these Lodges leaves the area.
Apart from established tour lodges, travellers who are interested in experiencing the
culture will find staying at the homestay in Sukau as part of their
exhilarating experience to the Kinabatangan. Homestay allows visitors to
become more integrated into the community of Sukau - the Orang Sungai ,
than if they stay in a lodge and also give the visitor a chance to
experience family life, customs and dynamics.
Currently, there are 13 families participating in
the homestay programme in this village which started in 1998. Families
who participate in the homestay programme received guidance from the
Ministry of Tourism, Environment, Science and Technology of Sabah with a
certification by the Ministry on household standards and facilities.
Food and meals are available in the village. For a simple, prepared meal
the standard price is around RM5/meal, although this may vary. Or, if
you are adventurous, find out what fresh food is available (river
prawns, fish) and taste the different ways it can be cooked. Prices are
quite reasonable. It is advisable you let the restaurant folk know you
will want meals in advance, this will help them get fresh food and
prepare a tasty meal.
Getting there is an adventure in itself!! Mini-buses can be fairly
frequent, but are sometimes erratic, in and out of the village - so be
prepared! More information email to
onesukau@gmail.com or Phone No:
+6019 582 1977
When to visit
The Kinabatangan region can be
visited all year round, though it is often flooded during the wettest part of
the year in December and January. The main flowering and fruiting
season, from April to October is generally fairly dry and a good time to spot
many birds and animals.
During the northeast monsoon,
from November to March, there are often heavy showers during the afternoons,
particularly during December and January. During the rainy season, however, it
is possible to negotiate many of the river channels leading in to the oxbow
lakes, where there is a greater concentration of wildlife.
